Tallinn: Old Town in Depth - Part 5

Toompea Castle

Perched on a limestone cliff and towering over the rest of the city, Toompea Castle has always been the seat of power in Estonia. Ever since the German Knights of the Sword first built a stone fortress here in 1227-29, every foreign empire that ruled Estonia used the castle as its base. Today, appropriately, its home to Estonia' s Parliament.

The castle has been updated countless times through the centuries, but still retains the basic shape it was given in the 13th and 14th centuries. From its front, visitors can see a pink, Baroque palace dating to the time of Catherine the Great. A look at its opposite side, visible from the base of the hill, gives a much more medieval perspective.

From the Governor' s Garden at the castle' s southern edge, the 46-metre Pikk Hermann tower comes into view. The tower is a vital national symbol; tradition dictates that whichever nation flies its flag over Pikk Hermann also rules Estonia. Each day at sunrise the Estonian flag is raised above the tower to the tune of the national anthem.

Holy Spirit Church

The 14th-century Holy Spirit Church is a spectacular structure inside and out, from its wood interior to elaborate façade clock. This radiantly white church with its distinctive octagonal tower stands just off Town Hall Square. The elaborately painted clock on its façade is Tallinn' s oldest public timepiece, dating to the late 17th century. However don' t miss the carved wood interior which includes treasures like a unique 15th-century altar by the famous Lübeck artist Bernt Notke, and one of the oldest pulpits in Estonia, dating to 1597.

The church was originally founded as part of the neighbouring Holy Spirit Almshouse, which tended to the town' s sick and elderly. Throughout medieval times it remained the primary church of the common folk. After the Reformation, it was here the first sermons were ever given in the Estonian language and a catechism published in 1535 by the church' s pastor Johann Koell is thought to be the first book in Estonian. Entrance is free with Tallinn Card.

Niguliste Museum (St. Nicholas' Church)

Exquisite altarpieces, medieval burial slabs and other works of religious art can be seen in this 1230-era church turned museum. Saints, dancing skeletons, silver and the occasional organ concert are the main attractions here.

It was founded by German merchants and settlers from the island of Gotland. The sturdy church was designed to double as a fortress in the days before the town wall was built. The building survived the Reformation looting of 1523 but wasn't so lucky in the 20th century when it was destroyed by World War II bombs.

Since its restoration in the 1980s, St. Nicholas' has functioned as a museum specialising in works of religious art, most famously Bernt Notke' s beautiful but spooky painting Danse Macabre. Intricate altarpieces, baroque chandeliers and centuries-old burial slabs are also on display, while the Silver Chamber is home to stunning works by members of town' s craft guilds. The building' s acoustics also make it a prime concert venue, with organ or choir performances held here most weekends. Entrance is free with Tallinn Card.

Continued in part 6