Tallinn: Old Town in Depth - Part 31

Great Coastal Gate and Fat Margaret Tower

Guarding the north end of Pikk street, these two defensive structures provide an eye-opening glimpse into Tallinn' s maritime past.

The medieval era Great Coastal Gate, Suur Rannavärav and Fat Margaret tower, Paks Margareeta were built not only to defend the city from the seaward side of town, but also to impress any visitors arriving via the harbour.

These days Fat Margaret’s cannon tower is home to the Estonian Maritime Museum, which provides a detailed look at the all-important sea-faring aspect of Estonia’s history, displaying such things as Neolithic fishing gear, antique diving equipment, and even the entire wheelhouse from a 1950s-era trawler. The extensive museum covers four floors of the historic tower.

From May until September, visitors can take the stairs to the rooftop for a picture postcard view of the Tallinn harbour and Old Town while enjoying the cold treats from an ice cream café.

The Great Coastal Gate, along with the Viru Gates, is the last of six gates that controlled access to the town in medieval times. The gate system here on Pikk street originated in the 1300s, but it was during reconstruction in the early 16th century that the Fat Margaret cannon tower was added. Built from 1511 to 1530, this hefty, round tower has a diameter of 25 metres, a height of about 20 metres, and walls up to 5 metres thick.

The origins of Fat Margaret' s name are a mystery. Some theories insist it was named for one of its larger cannons, while others hint at a cook called Margaret who once worked here. In any case, the tower has served a number of different functions throughout its history. It has been used as a storehouse for gunpowder and weapons, and as a prison.

Kalamaja - Wooden houses & Bohemian charm

This quiet little neighbourhood just outside the Old Town is eye-catching for its colourful wooden buildings. Throughout most of Tallinn’s history, Kalamaja served as the town’s main fishing harbour.

In fact, 'Kalamaja' literally means 'fish house' in Estonian, and starting from the 14th century the area was traditionally dominated by fishermen, fishmongers and boatwrights. Everything changed in 1870, however, when Tallinn was connected to St. Petersburg by railroad. Suddenly enormous factories started to sprout up in this part of town, bringing with them an influx of thousands of new workers.

The wooden houses built to accommodate these workers became Kalamaja' s architectural legacy and are now what gives the neighbourhood its unforgettable charm. The most architecturally unique of these are called ' Tallinn Houses'. Built in the 1920s and 30s, these two- to three-storey apartment houses are made of two symmetrical wooden wings separated by a stone central staircase. There are about 500 of these in the city today.

It’s a must-see destination for anyone interested in architecture and history, as well as those who want to gain an insight into Tallinn’s newer art landscape. It’s one of the most popular neighbourhoods in the capital.

Continued in part 32