Tallinn: Old Town in Depth - Part 16

After the viewpoint, you descend to the lower town. Go out and left down Kohtu, past the Finnish
Embassy (on your left). Back at the Dome Church, the slanted tree points the way, left down Piiskopi, “Bishop’s Street”.

At the onion domes, turn left again and follow the old wall down Pikk Jalg “Long Leg Lane” into the lower town. Go under the tower, then straight on Pikk Street, and after two doors turn right on Voorimehe, which leads into Town Hall Square.

Through Viru Gate

Cross through the square, left of the Town Hall’s tower and go downhill passing the kitschy medieval Olde Hansa Restaurant, with its bonneted waitresses and merry men. Continue straight down Viru Street toward Hotel Viru, the blocky white skyscraper in the distance. Viru Street is old Tallinn’s busiest and kitschiest shopping street. Just past the strange and modern wood/glass/stone mall, Müürivahe street leads left along the old wall, called the “Sweater Wall. ”

This is a colourful and tempting gauntlet of women selling knitwear, anything with images and bright colours is likely to be machine made. Katariina Käik, a lane with glassblowing shops, leads left, beyond the sweaters. Back on Viru Street you pass the golden arches and walk through the medieval arches of the Viru Gate which marks the end of old Tallinn. Outside the gates, opposite Viru 23, above the flower stalls, is a small park on a piece of old bastion known as the Kissing Hill. If you come back here after dark and you’ll find out why.

Now that you have seen all the major sights we can have a look at some of the others that may be worth your time.

IN OR NEAR THE OLD TOWN

Central Tallinn has dozens of small museums, most suitable only for specialized tastes. The following are the ones I would visit first.

Museum of Estonian History (Eesti Ajaloomuuseum)

The Great Guild Hall on Pikk Street, which was mentioned on my walking tour earlier, houses this modern and well-presented exhibit a bonus is that English text is standard. The museum’s basic approach which combines lots of actual artefacts from both prehistory and today and high-tech interactive exhibits is slanted towards educating first time visitors about this small country.
It costs €5, May-Aug and is open daily 10:00-18:00, it has the same hour’s off-season except it is closed on Wed.

When you enter it is best to download the free smartphone audio guide to navigate the collection. To answer the question of what it means to be an Estonian you will see a coin collection of past currencies. This includes the Soviet rouble and the pre-euro krooni, then head into the whitewashed vaulted hall to see the “Spirit of Survival” exhibit, which traces 11, 000 years of Estonian history. Steep steps lead down into the cellar, with an armoury, ethnographic collection, items owned by historical figures, an exhibit about the Great Guild Hall itself, and a fun “time capsule” that lets you insert your face into videos illustrating episodes in local history.

Continued in part 17