Tallinn: Old Town in Depth - Part 14

Toompea Castle (Toompea Loss)

The pink palace is an 18th-century Russian addition onto the medieval Toompea Castle. Today, it’s the Estonian Parliament, Riigigoku, building, flying the Estonian flag. This is the flag of both the first 1918-1940 and second 1991to present, Estonian republics. You should take notice of the Estonian seal. It is three lions for three great battles in Estonian history, and oak leaves for strength and stubbornness. Ancient pagan Estonians, who believed spirits lived in oak trees, would walk through forests of oak to toughen up. Even to this day, Estonian cemeteries are in forests. Keeping some of their pagan sensibilities, they believe the spirits of the departed live on in the trees.

Now to move on you face the palace and go left through the gate into the park where you will see the Tall Hermann Tower.

Tall Hermann Tower (Pikk Hermann)

This is the tallest tower of the castle wall is a powerful symbol for the country. For 50 years, while the Estonian flags were hidden in cellars, the Soviet flag flew from Tall Hermann. As the USSR was separating, Estonians proudly and defiantly replaced the red Soviet flag here with their own black, white, and blue flag. Now you have to backtrack a bit and go uphill, passing the Russian church on your right. You will be climb Toom-Kooli Street which takes you to the Dome Church.

Dome Church (Toomkirik)

Estonia is ostensibly Lutheran, but few Tallinners go to church. A recent Gallup Poll showed Estonia to be the least religious country in the European Union, only 14 per cent of respondents identified religion as an important part of their daily lives. Most churches double as concert venues or museums, but this one is still used for worship. Officially called St. Mary’s Church, however, it is known popularly as the Dome Church. It’s a perfect example of simple Northern European Gothic, built in the 13th century during Danish rule, then rebuilt after a 1684 fire. Once the church of Tallinn’s wealthy German-speaking aristocracy, it’s littered with more than a hundred coats of arms, carved by local masters as memorials to the deceased and inscribed with German tributes. The earliest dates from the 1600s, the latest from around 1900. If you want to pay a fee of €5, you can climb the 140 steps up the tower to enjoy the view. Entry to just the church entry free, daily from 9:00-18:00.

When you leave the church, turn left and go around the back of the building. You’ll pass a slanted tree, then the big green former noblemen’s clubhouse on your right at #1. This was vacated when many Germans left Estonia in the 1930s. Head down cobbled Rahukohtu lane, to the right of the yellow, pyramid-shaped house. Walking along the street try to notice the embassy signs; many Government offices and embassies have moved into these buildings after the neighbourhood was improved. Continue straight under the arch and prepare for a great view.

Continued in part 15