Tallinn: Old Town in Depth - Part 13

When you have finished looking around all the towers and ramparts you need to head through the hole in the wall, and head uphill into the upper town.

You can circle around the left side of the big, onion-domed church. As you walk on your left is the so-called “Danish King’s Garden. ” Tallinn is famous among Danes as the birthplace of their flag. According to legend, the Danes were losing a battle here. Suddenly, a white cross fell from heaven and landed in a pool of blood. The Danes were inspired and went on to win. To this day, their flag is a white cross on a red background.

Once you have completed your circle around to the far side of the church and facing the pink palace to get a great view of the cathedral, and to find the entrance.

Russian Orthodox Cathedral

The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is a stunning building and is one of the must-see places to go. However, since the day it was built in 1900, it has been a sore point for Estonians. The church went up near the end of the two centuries when Estonia was part of the Russian Empire. Just as throughout the rest of Europe in the late 19th century, Tallinn’s oppressed ethnic groups, the Estonians and the Germans, were caught up in national revival movements. These celebrated their own culture, language, and history rather than their Russian overlords’. So the Russians flexed their cultural muscle by building this church in this location, facing the traditional Estonian seat of power, and over the supposed grave of a legendary Estonian hero, Kalevipoeg. They also tore down a statue of Martin Luther to make room for the construction site.

The church has been skilfully renovated inside and out. You are welcome to step inside for a sample of Russian Orthodoxy, the church is free and open daily from 8:00-19:00, and you can also buy icon art in the gift shop. It’s OK to visit discreetly during services which are daily at 9:00 and 18:00. This is when you will hear the priests singing the liturgy in a side chapel. Typical of Russian Orthodox churches, it has glittering icons, the highest concentration fills the big screen which is called an iconostasis. This shields the altar from the congregation, there are no pews as worshippers stand throughout the service, also note that at this time the air will be heavy with incense. All of these features combine to create a mystical, otherworldly worship experience. You may also notice the many candles, each representing a prayer; if there’s a request or a thank-you in your heart, you’re welcome to buy one at the desk by the door. When you are exploring this space, you should keep in mind that about 40 per cent of Tallinn’s population is ethnic Russian.

When you have finished here it will be time to cross the street to the Toompea Castle.

Continued in part 14