Tallinn: An overview – Part 12

Budget places to eat.

Road Food is tucked away on a tiny lane immediately behind the Town Hall Tower. You would not find it unless you know where to look, but it has some of the best low cost food in the city. It is a branch of the Olde Hansa food empire. This sandwich shop serves up an excellent, quick taste of Estonia, stuffing its €4-5 sandwiches with local meats and sauces. It’s attached to a well-stocked beer and wine shop, making it easy to browse for the perfect drink to go with your food. Summer hours are 11:00 to 24:00 with earlier closing in off peak periods.

Eat is an unusual cellar level hangout mostly for students. It has a big foosball table and a book exchange, without doubt it serves the best value lunch in town. Its menu is very simple in that it just has three varieties of pelmeenid/dumplings, plus sauces, beet salad, and pickles. You fill a dish with as much as you like and then pay by weight. Typically a big bowl will only cost you €2 or €3. You can ask for details of the various dumplings and sauces and then go for the complete package. Fill your plate and yourself and don’t worry as you can’t spend much money here.

Near the Outdoor Market you will find Balti Jaama Kohvik. It is at the end of the train station near the Balti Jaam Market and is an uninspiring looking 24-hour diner with no real sign. You need to look for a faded red awning and a sign saying Kohvik avatud 24 tundi which means “café open 24 hours” stuck on the door. This place is actually built into the train station building itself. The busy kitchen turns out traditional Russian and Estonian dishes which are the cheapest hot food in town. You will not see or hear a word of English here, but don’t let that put you off. If you can point then you will be OK as there is a glass case which displays the various meals and prices. Typically you pay €3 for meals, €1. 60 soups, and wonderful savoury pancakes are less than €1. The only downside is that the area feels rough after dark.

Breakfast, pastries and sweets

The Maiasmokk or “Sweet Tooth” café and pastry shop was founded in 1864. It is the grande dame of Tallinn cafés and an ideal place to visit for dessert or breakfast. Even during the Soviet days, this was the place for a good pastry or a glass of herby Tallinn schnapps. Again just point to what you want from the selection of classic local pastries at the counter, and sit down for breakfast or coffee on the other side of the shop. They also have a marzipan shop but this is a separate entrance.

Pierre Chocolaterie has mouth-watering fresh pralines, sandwiches, and coffee all served in a courtyard filled with craft shops.