Marrakech: An overview - Part 20

Hammam’s - continued

A Guide to the process

Although hammam sounds exotic it is in fact just a simple variation on the traditional steam bath experience with a massage element, however, this part is very vigorous. In fact that might understate the whole process. After having some time to acclimatise to the heat in a warm area, you’ll be moved into a hot room to work up a sweat. You will then be doused in cool water to cleanse the body before you’re coated in a black soap called Savon Noir. This soap is made of olives and it usually has had the addition of eucalyptus for its antiseptic properties. It is applied liberally to your body where it penetrates the pores and exfoliates the skin. The Savon Noir will be left to soak into you for a while before you enter the last phase of the hammam. Your tellak or attendant will then take a coarse fabric glove and scrub your body. When I say scrub here that is exactly what I mean, think cleaning the grill after a BBQ and you might come close. Once the Savon Noir has been cleaned off you will be tingling from head to toe, at this point you are then able to relax for a while.

In public neighbourhood hammams, men and women will have separate days or times to bathe. In private hammams that are operated by hotels or as a business, then it will likely be just you and the attendant.

What to should you take with you? If you are having a private hammam, you’ll only need to pack clothes to change into after your session. Private Hammams often provide disposable underwear, or you can wear your own. If you decide to visit a traditional neighbourhood hammam which is much cheaper then it means bringing your own kit along. You will need a small bowl for scooping water, a kess or scrubbing mitt, savon noir, your own shampoo and other toiletries. You will also need a plastic mat for the floor, a change of clothes and a towel for drying off as nothing is provided in neighbourhood hammams. It is possible that you will have kits you can hire and can often help you arrange everything for you. If you don’t want to scrub yourself you can pay an attendant to do it for an extra Dh50-100.

Local Hammams in Marrakech

Hammam El Bacha is one of the most historic and it was initially used by the staff of the Dar El Bacha which is just across the road. It’s still functioning but has been poorly maintained the highlight of a visit here is an impressive 6 metre high cupola in the steam room.

Palais Rhoul is the hammam attached to the exclusive Palmeraie villa, however it is open to all.

La Sultana is a five-star hotel next to the Saadian Tombs complete with basement spa. This comes with a star domed marble jacuzzi, a hammam, a fitness centre and solarium.

Hivernage Hotel & Spa is a smart hotel close to the Mamounia, its services include a hammam, essential oil baths, massages and a sports hall.

Hammam Ziani is located near the Bahia Palace. What this hammam offers is all the basic facilities, scrub, soak, steam and pummel but in a significantly cleaner environment than many of the other medina bathhouses.

Continued in part 21