Germany: Swabian Mountains

If you take a trip to the Southwest of Stuttgart in Germany you will find the green and unspoiled Swabian Mountains which stretch for a total of about 125miles.

Swabia is a source of many delights with the major areas being history and geology. A big draw are the caves, with their stalactites and stalagmites, two of the most accessible are near Bad Urach. The Bear Cave gave shelter to prehistoric rhinos, cave lions and of course bears.

The now well illuminated Mist Cave was a hideout for an exiled duke 400 years ago. There are also two spectacular meteorite craters which is another reason why this area is so special. In fact it is so special that UNESCO has designated it as a Biosphere reserve.

The area is a former high volcanic plateau with parts of the region being up to 1, 000 meters high. There are some very distinctive towns and it is very common for the town names to end with –ingen. Such names refer to settlements named after a prominent person or less often after a geographical feature such as a body of water. Sigmaringen, for example, means that the settlement was founded by a Teuton called Sigmar and his kin.

What you will find in abundance are lonely castles amidst striking scenery, juniper covered heaths, meadows full of flowers, beech woods, limestone rocks, lakes, fossil treasures, stalactite caves, waterfalls and thermal springs.

Sigmaringen is home to the first spectacular river castle on the Danube which is still lived in by a Hohenzollern prince. However the actual Hohenzollern family seat is located to the north on higher ground near Hechingen. This is a fairytale style property which was built by King Wilhelm IV between 1850 and 1867 in the Romantic style. It was for a while the most spectacular castle in Germany. However just like modern skyscrapers there is always someone who wants something better or bigger. In this case the castle was trumped by King Ludwig II’s Neuschwanstein a few years later. This was followed of course by Walt Disney who used it as a model for his own castles.

Also in the area is the city of Ulm where you can visit ULM Minster. This was started in the Gothic era but not completed until the late 19th century. It is the tallest church in the world and the 4th tallest structure built before the 20th century. It stands 161. 5 meters high and has 768 steps from the base to the top. At the top level you can reach the height is 143 meters and there is a panoramic view of Ulm in Baden-Württemberg and Neu-Ulm in Bavaria. When there is clear weather you can view the Alps from Säntis to the Zugspitze. The final stairwell to the top, which is known as the third Gallery, is a tall spiraling staircase that has barely enough room for one person.

It is very easy to explore the area either on foot or by bike. Hikers will like the Traufgange which is seven trails designed for one day hikes. These range from 6-10miles up to 9-17miles. Cyclists are catered for with the Danube Cycle Path which runs for 120 miles from Don.