Cuba: Havana - Part 3

Malecon 663, an incredible house on the Malecon, Havana’s iconic sea esplanade, has been transformed by percussionist with legendary salsa band Charanga Habanera and his French wife.

With its eclectic rooms, mini concept store, open bar, polished concrete floors mixing Cuban tiles, its ethos of breakfast whenever and wherever, its little rooftop spa, sensational little penthouse and its living wall-the first in Havana-this is truly 21st century Cuba.

Upmarket accommodation is not the only side effect of cuentaprorismo, the self-employment that is defining the island these days.

Private restaurants are getting wildly better too. Over an eclectic feast that includes tabouleh, samosas, fresh pasta and its signature paella. The owner of Mas Habana in Old Habana tells me his story.

Reinier Perez Cuelto acquired a home occupied by 18 people and many more rats and over more than a year created a mezzanine topped space decorated with bespoke post-industrial furniture and lighting. An installation by Cuban artist Damian Aquiles complements photography by Nelson Dominguez.

Amid these private enterprises, it pleasing to see social projects still being rolled out. In downtown Central Havana, Proyecto Amos, in sleek air-conditioned quarters this impoverished part of town.

Dance, drawing and sculpturing are also an offer, the aim in a country where fine art and photography tends to outstrip commercial photography. You can enjoy a Creole lunch or dinner.

Those who crave a slug of Cuba’s more timeless assets should head to convivial Museo del Ron Havana Club. If you are fan of rum, the museum is a characterful draw. Carved out of an elegant 18th-century colonial courtyard house close to the harbour in Old Havana, it showcases the history of Havana Club and guides you through the distilling and ageing process, afterwards, there is a tasting in the handsome colonial bar-restaurant, serenaded by son musicians.

Even more appealing is the museum’s countryside distillery. Against a bucolic backdrop within striking distance of Havana, you can watch raw sugar become sugar cane juice for boiling into molasses.

It is then fermented with yeast and water to make a mixture that is distilled to become aguardiente rum’s fire-water. This is aged in vast oak barrels that used to contain bourbon and whiskey, lending extra complexity and fragrance.

This is also a wonderful place to sample the Havana Club rums, such as Maximo Extra Anejo. Then in life as in rum making, everything becomes sweet.