Places not to miss
Jemaa El Fna
The name of medina’s central square means “Assembly of the Dead”. This is a reference to ancient times when the heads of executed criminals would be displayed here on spikes. Thankfully this does not happen now but the square is still populated with some strange and wonderful sights such as snake charmers, monkey trainers and colourfully costumed water sellers. The government has tried without much success to cleanse Jemaa El Fna with neat paving and ornamental barrows. However, the place still remains chaotic ever and here is a selection of the type of people you will meet when you visit the square.
Orange Juice Stalls
These are the first stalls to appear on the square every morning, they are manned by the sellers of freshly squeezed orange juice. They all ply their trade from brightly painted iron barrows which are on the edges of the square.
Café de France
If you are going to sit and watch the coming and goings of the square then what better place than over coffee at the Café de France. There are plenty of other places but this one has appeal and is also a favourite with both tourists and locals.
Calèches
All along the square’s west side you will find calèches or horse-drawn carriages. You must bargain in advance for a price before they take you on a circuit of the city walls.
Porters / Carroser
These are possibly the most useful people you will find on the square as all cars are banned from crossing Jemaa El Fna. If you want to reach many of the hotels in the surrounding alleys then the only option, if you have more luggage than you can carry, is one of these porters. They transport your luggage on a wheeled barrow to your chosen hotel for a small tip, which it is best to agree in advance.
Tooth Pullers
These “dentists” sit behind wooden trays filled with pulled teeth ready to aid locals with aching teeth. Probably not covered on your health insurance!
Monkey Trainers
They have small monkeys which are dressed in bright costumes are brought to the square each day to dance for tossed coins.
Herbalists
These date back to early Moroccan belief in natural remedies. The powders on display consist of everything from ground roots, dried herbs and even dried animal parts. They claim to cure everything from head colds to warding off the evil eye.
Snake Charmers
During the heat of the day most snakes just want to go to sleep so the owner will try to get you to pose with one round your shoulders; for a fee.
Water Sellers / Gerrab
The water sellers roam the square in colourful costume and tassel-fringed hats, ringing copper bells to announce their presence. The brass cups are meant exclusively for the Muslims while the white-metal cups are for the thirsty people from all other religions
Fortune Tellers
All day you will find elderly women squatting beneath umbrellas with packs of Tarot cards. Stop if you feel like being entertained by what the future holds for you.
Continued in part 2
An overview of Marrakech – Part 2
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