An overview of Marrakech – Part 10

Places not to miss – continued,

Mouassine Fountain

There are two main routes that most people take into the souks. These are either the Rue Mouassine or Rue Semarine. The Rue Mouassine runs past the Mouassine Mosque, after which the neighbourhood and street is named. If you take a right turn at the Mouassine Mosque this leads on to a small plaza that holds a fountain with four bays, three of the bays are for animals and while the forth is for humans. An arched gateway next to the fountain leads to the Souk des Teinturiers.

Musée de Marrakech

While the museum’s exhibits are generally fairly ordinary the rotating collection does includes ceramics and a small collection of traditional crafts. However, the building itself is splendid and worth more than its contents. It’s a finely restored 19th century palace which once belonged to a member of the royal court. A large central court has a splendid chandelier, while the former hammam, or Turkish bath, makes an unusual exhibition space.

Koubba El Badiyin

The dusty open plaza across from the Musée de Marrakech is named after the Ben Youssef Mosque which lies beyond a wall on the north side. Non-Muslims are forbidden to enter the mosque. However, all visitors are allowed into the Koubba El Badiyin which is a small domed structure that sits alone in its own garden. This is the only surviving structure from the Almoravids era who were the founders of Marrakech. The underside of the dome carries an eight-pointed star motif.

The Tanneries

Don’t have a large meal if you plan to visit this particular quarter of the medina. This is where animal hides are turned into leather. The work is done by hand and involves the hides being soaked in open vats, which look like a painter palette from a distance. However, once you get up close the smell is overpowering and reminiscent of a cesspit. The guides who show visitors around hand out sprigs of mint to hold under your nose. If you get this far consider a visit to the houses near the Bab Debbagh gate. You' ll usually be offered to see a view of the tanneries from above on the roof of one of the houses; for a tip. The views are worth it, but many of the ' houses' are really leatherwear shops who can be very pushy.

Dar El Bacha

This is the former residence of Thami El Glaoui the much feared and little-loved ruler of Marrakech and southern Morocco during the first half of the 20th century. This is where the Glaoui entertained guests such as Winston Churchill and kept his extensive harem. Apart from the colourful history associated with the place it seems a little tasteless. Some parts of the palace are currently closed to visitors and are set to re-open as an archaeological museum which may be the case by the time you read this.

Continued in part 11